Plan your custom PC like a pro

Set your budget and what the machine’s for — we’ll split the money across components the way experienced builders do, tell you exactly what class of part to buy, and link every part to live Scan.co.uk listings.

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Already own a gaming PC that has gone slow? Before you budget for a new one, see our remote gaming PC tune-up — nothing wiped, price agreed first.

1 · What’s this PC for?

2 · Total budget (excluding monitor & peripherals)

3 · Extras

🔧 Your build — where the money goes

💰 Tight budget? What to buy first — and what can wait

  • The power supply never gets trimmed. Buy the quality 80+ Gold unit on day one — it protects everything you add later, and a good one outlives two builds.
  • Motherboard, CPU, PSU and case first. That’s a machine that boots (on integrated graphics if your CPU has them) and a platform you’ll never have to rip apart.
  • The graphics card can come last. GPU prices swing more than any other part — bridge with integrated graphics or a cheap used card, then pounce when the sales hit.
  • Storage and memory are the easy laters. Start at 1TB and one 2×8GB kit if you must — both drop in later in minutes. Just always buy RAM as a matched pair, never a single stick “to add to”.
  • Case bling and RGB wait at the back of the queue. A £60 mesh case cools as well as a £150 showpiece — looks are the one upgrade with zero performance.
  • Under ~£600 all-in? Be honest with yourself: a refurbished business-grade Dell desktop from £545 usually beats a compromised new build (choose a tower model if you want to add a graphics card later).

💡 Golden rules of PC building

  • Never cheap out on the power supply. A quality 80+ Gold unit from a reputable brand protects every other part — a bad one can take them with it.
  • Balance beats bragging. A monster graphics card with a weak processor (or vice versa) wastes money — that’s exactly what the split above prevents.
  • Always two sticks of RAM (dual channel) — 2×16GB beats 1×32GB every time.
  • Check the three clearances before ordering: graphics-card length, CPU-cooler height, and radiator space — all listed on the case’s spec page.
  • Match the platform: AMD Ryzen (AM5 socket) and Intel Core each need their own motherboard, and both are DDR5 now — the board’s spec page is the truth.
  • Buy the storage you’ll actually need. Migrating a full Windows drive later is a faff — 1TB minimum, 2TB if you record or edit.
  • Airflow before aesthetics. A mesh-front case with two good fans quietly outperforms a pretty glass box that cooks.
  • First build? Take your time. Build on the motherboard box, touch the case metal before handling parts, and follow the manual’s order. It’s Lego with one rule: don’t force anything.

🛠️ Tools (you need less than you think)

  • A #2 Phillips screwdriver — magnetic tip ideally. That’s genuinely most of it.
  • A USB stick (8GB+) for the Windows installer, made with Microsoft’s free Media Creation Tool.
  • Nice to have: a magnetic parts tray, zip ties for cable tidying, and a torch. Thermal paste comes pre-applied on most coolers.

Honest guidance, not gospel: component generations move fast, so we point you at the right class of part for your money and link to live listings rather than quoting prices that would be stale by Friday. Sales (and GPU price swings!) can move the sweet spots.

Want a second pair of eyes?

Send us your parts basket before you hit buy and we’ll sanity-check it free — compatibility, balance and honest “spend less here, more there” advice. And if the budget’s tight: our refurbished business-grade Dells from £510 beat most sub-£500 new builds.

// GOOD QUESTIONS

Frequently asked

Why don’t you show exact prices?

Because component prices genuinely change weekly (graphics cards especially), and a stale price is worse than none. Instead we split your budget the way experienced builders do, tell you what class of part that money buys, and link you to the live listing where the real price is. Prices always come from the retailer, never from us.

Are the Scan or Amazon links affiliate links?

The Amazon ones are — since September 2026 they carry our Amazon Associates tag, so we may earn a small commission if you buy through one, at no extra cost to you; the note beside the buttons says so. Scan links are plain searches. Neither changes which parts we recommend.

Why do the percentages change with the use case?

Because the bottleneck moves: games live on the graphics card (~38% of budget), editing and CAD lean on the processor and memory, and an office PC shouldn’t buy a graphics card at all. Balance is the whole game — a monster GPU with a starved CPU wastes money.

Can you check my basket before I buy?

Yes, free — send it over and we’ll sanity-check compatibility (socket, RAM, PSU, clearances) and tell you honestly where to spend less or more.

Should I build new or buy refurbished?

Below about £600 for a general-purpose machine, our refurbished business-grade Dells from £510 usually beat a new budget build on quality and warranty. New custom builds shine from the mid-range up, and for gaming.

Can you help if my build won’t boot?

Yes — call, or book a free collection. First-build gremlins (RAM not clicked in, panel connectors, missing standoffs) are usually a 20-minute fix for someone who’s seen them a hundred times.

Measure it when it’s built

Run our free PC Benchmark on the finished machine and see your score — then keep it fast with a plan that includes regular servicing, updates and security.

01202 775566 · help@365techies.co.uk · MON–FRI 9AM–5PM

// HOW IT WORKS

How to split your PC build budget

For a gaming PC the graphics card usually deserves the biggest slice of the budget — often around a third — followed by the processor, with the rest spread across the motherboard, memory, storage, power supply and case; that split shifts if you’re building for video editing, 3D or everyday office work.

  • Gaming: the graphics card takes the largest share (roughly a third), then the processor.
  • Video editing / 3D / workstation: more goes to the processor, memory and fast storage, and relatively less to the graphics card.
  • Everyday / office: no dedicated graphics card needed — spend on a fast SSD and plenty of memory.
  • Never skimp on the power supply: a cheap PSU can damage everything else, so it always gets a sensible slice.

Step by step

  1. Set your total budget — Enter what you want to spend in the builder — it works out sensible amounts for each part.
  2. Pick your use case — Choose gaming, everyday or workstation/editing; the percentages shift to suit what you actually do.
  3. Review the per-part split — See roughly what to spend on the graphics card, processor, motherboard, memory, storage, case and power supply.
  4. Use the buy links — Open the live Scan or Amazon searches for each part to see today’s real prices.
  5. Want it built for you? — 365 Techies can spec, build and set up the whole thing — just ask.

Good to know

How should I split my PC build budget?

For gaming, put the biggest share into the graphics card (around a third), then the processor, then divide the rest across motherboard, memory, storage, case and a good power supply. For video, 3D or office work the balance shifts — this builder adjusts the percentages to match your use case.

How much of my budget should the graphics card be?

On a gaming build the graphics card is usually the single biggest line, often about a third of the total. For everyday or office use you often don’t need a dedicated card at all — that money is better spent on a fast SSD and more memory.